Ingredient: Kippers
Category: Fish
Season: All
A kipper is a fat, juicy herring that has been split, gutted, salted and smoked.
One of the sad things in the history of kippering (a curing process invented in the 1840s by a man called John Woodger) is that since World War II – when some foods were required by weight rather than number – most kippers have been under-cured, because curing removes moisture and therefore weight.
Most kippers today are also dyed: this is done to compensate for what would otherwise be their anaemic under-cured appearance. Some undyed kippers are still available from parts of Scotland and the Isle of Man, but they’re mainly available only in the north-west.
Look for plumpness, oiliness, a silvery golden colour and a good smoky smell in a kipper.
All fish (and meat) tastes better cooked on the bone, and kippers are no exception.
They are excellent baked in a hot oven, but line the baking tray with foil to avoid any fishy flavours.
I personally think grilling is the best way to cook them. But what about the smell?’ you’re thinking! No problem if you cook them the very best way of all and that’s on the barbecue.
Both kippers and herrings taste especially good cooked on a barbecue out in the open air – in which case, no lingering smells to worry about
Grilled kippers:
Pre-heat the grill, then line the grill pan with foil (which will stop any kippery smells haunting the pan)
Brush the foil with melted butter.
Remove the heads and tails from the kippers with scissors,
then lay the fish on the foil, skin side uppermost.
Grill them for 1 minute, turn them over (flesh side uppermost),
brush the flesh with melted butter and
grill for a further 4-5 minutes until the butter is sizzling.
Serve immediately with lemon to squeeze over them and perhaps a dash of cayenne.
If you have an aversion to bones, you can of course buy kipper fillets: treat them in just the same way.
Jugged kippers:
Remove the heads
Fold the sides of the fish together and
Pack vertically in a tall warmed jug.
Pour in enough boiling water to cover the kippers,
Put a lid or plate on top of the jug,
Leave them in a warm place for 6 minutes.
Drain and dry them with kitchen paper.
Serve on hot plates with a knob of butter to melt over each fish |